Play Sand

[LittleMousling]

There are anaerobic bacteria that can build up in deep, compact sand and that  remove nitrates; however, deep sand beds have their own set of problems.

[Exister]

Just pick up a bag of 3M ColorQuartz Crystals - problem solved!

[aquagirl]

Just pick up a bag of 3M ColorQuartz Crystals - problem solved!

Taken from 3M's web site..... Note: 3M Colorquartz Ceramic-coated Crystals are ONLY an ingredient in pool plaster.

This does not seem to be a ready available product for the general publics use. Perhaps a pool supply store might have it but it is most likley sold in large quanities. I might invistigate it though.

[Exister]

For tons of info on the 3M ColorQuartz "sand", check this (very long) thread.  It's how I found a local supplier for mine:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=43290

[aquagirl]

For tons of info on the 3M ColorQuartz "sand", check this (very long) thread.  It's how I found a local supplier for mine:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=43290

Thanks so much for the link . I did read all 12 pages, . How do your shellies like it? I am really temped to try it. The only problem I see is it has no buffering capabilities. But what I'm using now doesn't buffer either. I added a layer  of crushed coral along the back of the tank to help buffer the ph. Both the Brevis and Occies like to move it all over the tank, lol.

[Exister]

My tank still isn't up yet, but I do have a 3-D DIY styrofoam/concrete background and a bunch of Texas holey rock.  Both of those will buffer the pH nicely, so I'm good to go!

[aquagirl]

Hi E
I did get my 3M ColorQuartz on Monday, had to go 26 miles to get it. I went with the blue, T grade. The brevis seem happy but the gold ocellatus are not digging in it at all. I hope that the grade is not to large for them. Hopefully they will be digging soon . Is your tank up and running yet

[Exister]

Glad to hear you found some of the 3M stuff.

No, my background is still curing.  I've done 4 water changes and the pH is still way too high (10.0). So until it comes down, I just have to wait.

[aquagirl]

Glad to hear you found some of the 3M stuff.

No, my background is still curing.  I've done 4 water changes and the pH is still way too high (10.0). So until it comes down, I just have to wait.

Waiting is the hard part . Let us know when it's up and running.

[Mattf]

I've got to tell you Exister. You win an award I just made up: The Put the Most Possible Amount of Time and Effort into One Small Tank Award.



Congratulations.

[Miles44]

My tank still isn't up yet, but I do have a 3-D DIY styrofoam/concrete background and a bunch of Texas holey rock.  Both of those will buffer the pH nicely, so I'm good to go!

I hear that the concrete in the tank will buffer the water to uninhabitable levels.  Like a ph of 12 or something.  That's just what I have heard.

[Exister]

I hear that the concrete in the tank will buffer the water to uninhabitable levels.  Like a ph of 12 or something.  That's just what I have heard.

Yeah, when I first added water to the tank, the pH shot up to 11.0.  So it has come down a little, but it's still got a way to go.

Oh, and thanks for the award Matt!  

[Mattf]

Miles, I had that same worry with my concrete caves, especially after someone on FG warned me about it.

I then posted on CF and NO ONE seals their concrete backgrounds there. They told me that it only really varies much while it's curing.

Exister, I do believe 10 is inhabitable...

[RustyNut]

Diatoms problem:  Nitrates, Phosphates, Silica, and light will all play a role.  However, 99% of the time the diatoms will BLOOM in a newer tank and then subside as they use up the available nutrients.  Usually after the diatoms start to fade away you see green algae replacing it everywhere (competition) and sometimes you even get an algae bloom in the water.   Lighting DOES affect diatoms but color/temp of the light is far more important than the length of time they are on.... to a point.  Diatoms use the blue spectrum more than any other plants, but still need red/yellow to thrive.  Unfortunately most of us use 8000k bulbs which are perfect diatom growers.  (not that others won't grow them)  Initially the Diatoms will out place the other competiors for nutrients and untill a good coating of green algae is growing they will remain.  - Just read way too much on diatoms a couple months ago and many "experts" are at odds with each other on the subject.  One thing everyone agrees with though is that PHOSPHATES cause the blooms.  The other is to reduce your photoperiod to 6-8 hours during the BLOOM and back to 12hours after it settles down so the "good" algae can grow.  Ancistrus and Rubber-lipped plecos will eat diatoms so they are a possibility while waiting for your tank to mature....  

Also stop scrubbing your rocks... let those suckers overgrow themselves and they will eventually starve themselves out... Nature has a way of taking care of itself sometimes....

Last:  I have had severe diatom blooms in tanks that used no silica substrate, but did have good old river rocks....  There is enough silica in the rocks to feed the diatoms so don't blame your sand... it might make the bloom more severe but it is not the root problem.  Phosphates usually are....